Best motorcycle roads
in the south of France

Ask any experienced rider where to find the best motorcycle roads in France and the answer is rarely the Côte d'Azur or the Alps. Those with local knowledge point to the Aveyron — a département in the southern Massif Central that most tourists have never heard of. Empty roads, dramatic gorges, limestone plateaux, medieval villages and barely a speed camera in sight. If you are planning a motorcycle holiday in southern France, this is where you should be.

Millau is the natural base. Sitting at the confluence of the Tarn and the Dourbie valleys, the town puts you within 20 minutes of some of the most spectacular riding in the country. It also happens to have a Viaduct — the world's tallest — which makes for a memorable arrival.

Route 1 — Gorges du Tarn (the essential ride)

The D907 from Millau to Sainte-Énimie is the ride that converts people. Around 60 km of tight bends carved between 400-metre limestone cliffs, the river running green far below, tiny villages appearing without warning around blind corners. It is narrow in places, which forces a measured pace — and that is entirely the point. Ride it in the early morning in summer, or better still in September when the light turns golden and the campervans disappear. Allow two hours each way if you want to stop properly.

Route 2 — Gorges de la Dourbie

Less famous than the Tarn and quieter for it. The D991 from Millau toward Nant threads between the Causse Noir and the Causse du Larzac, following a river that has cut a valley just as dramatic as its neighbour but sees a fraction of the traffic. This is the kind of road you keep to yourself — tell people about it and you ruin it. Connecting it with the Tarn gorge makes for a full day loop that most riders rate among the best they have ever ridden in Europe.

Route 3 — Causse du Larzac

A complete change of register. Where the gorges are tight and vertical, the Causse du Larzac opens out into a vast limestone plateau — flat horizons, dry-stone walls, Lacaune sheep, the occasional Templar commandery. The road to La Couvertoirade crosses what feels like another country entirely. Long sweeping straights, very little traffic, and a quality of silence you rarely find this close to the motorway network. Perfect after a morning in the gorges.

Route 4 — The Viaduct Loop

Short, about an hour, but a strong memory. Leave Millau along the left bank of the Tarn, pass under the Viaduct on the valley road, stop at the medieval village of Peyre which clings to a cliff above a bend in the river, then climb to the Belvédère nord for the full viaduct panorama before returning via the causse. The contrast between riding in the valley shadow of those enormous piers and looking down on them from the plateau above is something riders talk about for years.

What makes Aveyron different from other riding destinations

The Aveyron is not on the standard motorcycle touring circuit. Most British and Dutch riders following southern France routes track the Pyrenees or head for the Alps. That is precisely why Aveyron works so well — roads that would be packed on a summer Saturday elsewhere are virtually empty here. The tarmac quality is generally excellent. The villages have not been overrun by tourism. And the food, when you stop for the evening, is seriously good.

Secure motorcycle garage in Millau

At Hôtel des Causses we have a private enclosed garage for motorcycles, available on reservation at €5 per night. After a long day in the gorges, knowing your bike is locked away changes the evening completely — you can actually relax. Mention the garage when booking and we will have it ready.

In the evening, our restaurant La Chaleur Nordique serves a menu built around local Aveyron produce with Nordic influences — exactly the kind of cooking that makes sense after a day's riding. Early sitting at 19h00, last orders 20h15.